Monday, October 21, 2019

From Pamplona to Puente la Reina - We were CHASED! (Day 5)

The Way of St. James


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Day 5: From Pamplona to Puente la Reina


During our stay in Pamplona, the temperatures and humidity were very high. We had washed our clothes and it never dried up. We were unable to sleep that night due to the heat wave that swiped the north of Spain in July. For this reason, we had no strength nor desire to get ready for our pilgrimage. Nevertheless, we started our journey at 9:00 a.m. to Puente la Reina which was somewhat late. Departing at this time is not recommended during July and August due to the high temperatures. Temperatures can easily rise to triple digits by noontime. Pilgrims should take caution and depart their lodging area a little prior to dawn to avoid the excruciating heat and sun rays during midday. It is very dangerous for pilgrims to walk during these temperatures because it can cause dehydration, dizziness, and exhaustion. 

If appropriate, we recommend traveling the Way of St. James during the months of April to June or anytime from September to November. On the other hand, July and August are the popular months travelers tend to have off work and have the availability to go on vacation. These months tend to be very hot and humid; although, you will have the opportunity to experience the major festivals that take place during this time period. On the contrary, from December to March, it is too cold. Many pilgrims have endangered their lives hiking in extreme weather and some have even perished. Please take caution!

As for our journey this day, it was promising picturesque views. The hike from Pamplona to Puente la Reina had different types of landscapes. We encountered grain-producing landscapes, such as, olives, fruit trees, almonds, sunflowers, wheat, and wine yards. We also encountered some wooded land, rocky hills, and a mountain. 

Our morning in Pamplona began with a temperature of 92 degrees Fahrenheit. Our first stop was to go to the University of Navarra which is located at the outskirts of Pamplona. Service hours are from Monday to Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Weekends and holidays are CLOSED. Our intention was to get the Pilgrim (Jacobean) University Credential, but is was closed due to the weekend. (See map for more details on location.)
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The Pilgrim (Jacobean) University Credential is intended for students, faculty, or alumni's that are passing through the European universities along the Way of St. James and validates their journey. Make sure to stamp (validate) the passport in all the universities along the way. When the pilgrim completes the journey, they will show both validated credentials (the Pilgrim's passport and the Pilgrim University passport) and they will receive two documents: the Pilgrim's Compostela and the Pilgrim University Certificate. 

At 10:00 a.m., we reached the first small village called Cizur Menor. We were using the sidewalks of the small village and we encountered over 90 cyclists riding on the main road. Cyclists and pilgrims sometimes meet where main roads are used. In the Way of St. James, there are different routes to choose from. It could be the pilgrim's way or the cyclists way which tend to be on the roadside. 

Along the route after Cizur Menor, the hiking was extremely challenging due to the excruciating heat (even the beautiful sunflowers were facing down at the time) and the lack of shade. However, the views were spectacular. We met many pilgrims from different parts of the world that day including, Netherlands, England, Croatia, Japan, Korea, and Spain. By 11:30 a.m., we were very thankful to find a little bit of shade. Nevertheless, the shade did not last long. 
Sunflower Valley in Cizur Menor, Spain

By 1:30 p.m., we entered Zariquiegui, a 12th century settlement. Two of the girls felt dizzy, so we decided to take a taxi to Puente de la Reina. The girls and I arrived to Ganbara Country Lodge, and the receptionist, Cristina, was very attentive and accommodating. The apartment was fully equipped; however, it did not have air conditioning. I wanted to cook since we were hungry and luckily, a convenient store was right next to the location where we were staying. We got some food products, snacks, and the girls ate ice cream to cool off. The store had a good variety of foods and snacks. As for Enuel and Amaris, they continued on with the day's journey. As a funny side comment, leaving the town of Zariquiegui, they encountered a man walking in his underwear (i.e., undergarment) because it was too hot! Also, Enuel was chased by a bee that had a stinger pointing towards him! He and Amaris ran avoiding the bee. 


Alto del Perdón, Zariquiegui area, Spain
Zariquiegui is located in the northern slope of the Sierra del Perdón. During the hike, wind turbines are easily seen. Enuel told me the terrain was rocky. They had to climb to reach "El Alto del Perdón" translated in English means The Peak of Forgiveness. It has an elevation of approximately > 3,000 ft. On the top of the sierra, pilgrim sculptures and a beautiful view is seen! Too bad I missed it. I only experienced it by viewing the video Enuel had recorded. The sculpture displays several pilgrims in their way to Santiago. The work is attributed to Vicente Galbate, a native of Pamplona. The meaning of the sculpture is very significant to pilgrims. The statues represent the many years of history of the Camino. Beginning with a representation of a medieval pilgrim making its way to the modern, the sculpture is an iconic stop along the route to Puente la Reina.

The next town was Uterga. It is a very small village. You will find a water fountain on the right side after you enter the city. Behind the city hall, there is another fountain in a children's playground. There was not much to see or do in this location. 

The next village you will encounter is Muruzábal. There is a bifurcation that will lead you to make a decision, either go directly to Obanos or turn left for 2 miles to experience the Church of St Mary of Eunate located in the valley of Valdizarbe. The church, with an enigmatic geometry, is open from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. from Monday to Friday during the year. Furthermore, it is open all day during the weekends and summer. It is considered to be a national monumental landmark. For this reason, Enuel and Amaris chose to take the route to reach St. Mary of Eunate and experience its structure and history. 
Church of St. Mary of Eunate, Muruzábal, Spain


The Church of St. Mary of Eunate was constructed in the 1170 and it has Mozarabic influence. It has an octagonal layout of Romanesque architecture. Historians believe it was constructed by the Knights Templars because it is very similar to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre found in Jerusalem. It is believed the church was used as a hospital and served as a funeral chapel. On the other hand, it was confirmed that it was used as a cemetery for pilgrims. 

In the next small village, Obanos, it has two main points of interest (i.e., St. John the Baptist Church and The Mystery of Obanos play). The church of St. John the Baptist was constructed in 1912 and it replaced the old church. It is of Neo-Gothic in style still and has a Renaissance altarpiece. Sculptures of the 18th century are still used. As for the Mystery of Obanos, it is a play staged with 400 entertainers during the end of the month of July usually for eight days. Apart from this, Obanos is located where two main routes of the Way of St. James meet (i.e., the French Way and Aragonese Way). 

The last stop for the day was Puente la Reina. We will provide more information about this location on our next blog. If you would like more information about our travel day, just ask in our comment section below. If you like our video and blog, please let us know by giving us a 👍. Don't for get to SUBSCRIBE and FOLLOW us. Thanks!

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